I’m just going to come out and say it…I LOVE INDIA!
In fact, I’m so thoroughly addicted to the madness of the subcontinent that I’ve now spent over two and a half years exploring it.
What am I addicted to?
The GAME.
Traveling in India is like playing a game, one that both challenges and changes every player. In the Game of India, you are blindly thrown into an intense tornado of chaos and must then not only find your way, but you must uncover the magic and beauty that is veiled in the insanity.
Every second of every day in India, you encounter sights, sounds, tastes and smells that you have never faced before. The challenge is constant, as you are forced to observe, interpret and understand a way of life so different from your own. The world that is India is wildly enigmatic, a world that at times seems completely lawless and without even the most basic of rules, while at other times, it shimmers with the pride of being the world’s largest working democracy.
When you travel in India, you cannot have a plan. It simply doesn’t work that way. All you need to do is get there and then simply wake up each day and walk outside your room. The mysterious current will immediately embrace you and lead you on a unique and unforgettable adventure….every single time.
An adventure that will take you to…
- Nauseatingly massive cities, remote villages seemingly unchanged for centuries, isolated Tibetan settlements 16,000 feet high up in the Himalayas, entire towns floating on lakes, built around fortresses in the middle of the desert, hidden in the depths of the jungle and nestled under palm trees along incredible stretches of beach
- Moments of such genuine hospitality followed by moments of such utter frustration, with both often taking place within the same minute and sometimes even caused by the same person (try introducing yourself to the man who just attempted to rip you off and you’ll soon find yourself sharing chai, talking politics and becoming friends with him moments later!)
- Camels roaming the deserts, tigers in the forests, elephants barreling down the streets of Delhi, and yaks hanging out in the mountains of Kashmir, not to mention holy cows and unruly monkeys inhabiting almost every corner of the country
- Constant encounters with the ‘unbelievable’ – whether it be the monuments of Hampi, the sunsets over Bundi and sunrises over the Ganges River, Mumbai’s sprawling Crawford market, bizarre rituals (such as throwing newborn babies to the ground from the top of a 50 foot wall in order to ensure their future strength – the babies land on sheets held by people below!), the enchanting backwaters of Kerala, the Golden Temple in Amritsar, a glimpse of the Dalai Lama in McLeod Ganj, the 2-day Himalayan bus journey from Manali to Leh, the burning ghats of Varanasi, the seemingly endless city slums and the sense of community of those living there and on and on and on…
- Religious diversity and the fascinating traditions that accompany it – Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, Jains, Parsis, Buddhists, Christians, B’hais and even a handful of Indian Jews all offering their own version of India
- A never-ending stream of magical palaces, forts, temples, mosques, monuments, ancient ruins and natural wonders, each leaving you more speechless and in awe than the previous one
- Cultural and religious festivals too numerous to count, ranging from those ancient and unaffected by time to the unfathomably wild and intense displays of devotion that you must see to believe
- Joyous feasts for the taste buds as you fill your stomach with endless helpings of vegetarian curries served on banana leafs, fresh samosas and pakoras, masala dosas, kathi kebabs, biryanis, momos, tandoori breads and some of the most divine (yet cavity-creating) sweets on earth
Traveling throughout India is rewarding, but it certainly is not easy. A simple stroll down the street is exhausting enough as you face off with suicidal truck drivers, taxis, rickshaws, bull-carts and cars, aggressive cows, hungry goats and wild dogs, endless beggars, con-men and vendors all screaming for your attention, exhaust pipes blowing thick black smoke into your face, men and women spitting everywhere without concern for whose feet are nearby, pot holes and downed wires, cow excrement and impromptu urinals, tissue-less nose blowing and piles of burning garbage in every direction.
But the truth is, before long, you’ll love every minute of it! Once you get comfortable with the game, you’ll find yourself hungry for the craziness and the unique and extraordinary experiences that each day brings.
However, only minimal and superficial rewards await the traveler who walks through the streets with constant suspicion, clenching tightly to their backpack and shouting at every Indian who tries to approach them. It is the traveler who is willing to dive right into the chaos and accept India with the most open of minds who will discover the infinite and life-changing rewards it offers.
If you’re the type of traveler who is not afraid to get out of your comfort zone and have your long-held views on life constantly challenged, India is a must.
After all, where else on this planet can you…
…ride in a human-pulled rickshaw, sip cappuccino in an upscale café, observe a holy man drink cow urine straight from a cow, visit a 500-year old Hindu temple, play a pick-up game of cricket, suddenly be invited to a traditional seven-day wedding by a stranger just because you’re a foreigner, walk through open sewage, feast on delicious, freshly cooked curries from a dilapidated food stall and have your ears cleaned by a half-naked man with dreadlocks on the sidewalk…all on the same street!
At the end of the day, the greatest benefit that India offers its visitors is to guarantee that the person you are when you arrive will little resemble the person you are when you leave.
Any questions about India? Just leave a comment below and I’ll help you out as best I can!
Back in 1999, I left home for a 3 month trip to Asia that has still yet to end.
india is one of the many places on my list to visit! I definately will be making my way there next summer.
I must agree, India has been by far the most extreme country I have visited… The chaos, their food, their attitude towards foreign people (they are so nice, they will treat you like a rockstar!)… but you forgot to mention something: HOW UNPUNTCUAL THEY CAN BE! I took a train that was suppose to last between 10 to 14 hrs (nobody was able to tell me how long it was suppose to last), at the end it lasted not 10hrs, neither 14hrs, it lasted 19 hrs!! hahaha My flight from Bangalore to Mumbai was delayed for 3 hrs (apparently quite common in India), but it wasn’t as fun when I lost my international flight because of this tinny inconvenience hahaha… just for future referece: keep this in mind and you will be ready to enjoy your wonderful adventure in that amazing country!
Earl,
This is one of the countries I’ve never been to but really want to go to. I’m mostly excited about the food, the energy, and the colors. Definitely going to have to plan a trip in the next couple years. Thank you for sharing your thoughts!
Thank you Monica for commenting! You’re right to be excited about the energy of India…I’m not sure if there is anywhere else on the planet where you can just walk outside and feel such an intense and magical energy. I miss it, especially whenever I’m at home where life seems to be a bit too energy-less!
This might have sealed the deal for me traveling to India. I have wanted to go ever since I went to Nepal. As you called it the game, I love how each day is different and presents such a variety of challenges to overcome. Look forward to future posts.
Glad to hear it Casey! If you enjoyed Nepal, you’ll definitely be a fan of India. And I’m excited to have found your blog as well…great stuff you’ve written, keep it coming…
Excellent post and very well written.
I am currently Living in Bangkok but am returning to the UK for Christmas. I was thinking of my next destination early next year between India, American and Argentina. I think you have just swung it for me.
I will be subscribing just because of that. Look forward to following your adventures.
I’m happy to hear you’re leaning towards India! Early in the year is a great time to visit most of the country and if you stick around long enough (until about April or so) the roads throughout the Himalayas will open up and an entirely different kind of India suddenly becomes available for exploring. I’ll be back next year as well as I can never stay away for too long!
Just wandered over to your blog and particularly enjoyed the article “5 Whopping Lies that Society Screams at You…” You have spoken the truth indeed.
India awakens the third eye in the traveler.
True indeed Anil. And I just read some posts on your site, it makes me want to get back to India right away!
Now I am just completely excited about going. Only two weeks until we leave for India. I want to explore everywhere that you mentioned. And we are definitely going to go there with an open mind to take everything in. Luckily we have all the time in the world so we can really enjoy it, and give us time to become comfortable there. I am sure that by the time we leave the country we are going to love it just like you! Thanks
Hello Dave & Deb! India is so large and diverse that you could literally end up spending all the time in the world over there! I’m looking forward to reading your thoughts once you’re there…
I love my India! I especially miss watching a beautiful sunset on the Ganga in Rishikesh, with the bells and chanting of a nearby puja in the background, as well as walking along the narrow craziness of the little alleys of Varanasi, down where the Ganga has turned brown… It astounds me how much contrast there is to be found in this country, and how much peace in the middle of extreme chaos. Thank you for putting it down in writing for me!
I’m transitioning to a nomadic lifestyle and my journey will begin in Southern India this March — thanks for making me even more excited than I already was!!
Your description is truly captivating!
.-= Raam Dev´s last blog ..An Invitation to Follow my Lifestyle Transition =-.
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I really really want to go. This will have to be on my list for next year!
Hey Roy – Good to hear! Just beware that India can be one of the most addicting travel destinations on the planet!
I can attest to that! I’m going back in a few months!
I’m trying to work in a trip over there soon as well! The pull of India is more powerful than that of any other country and it’s been way too long. Hopefully we’ll be able to meet up so let me know when your plans are all set…
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Don’t forget about all the poop that you will inevitably sacrifice your sandals to!
Hey Leif – That’s quite a good point. Every traveler will step in a pile of it at least once! And if they’re lucky, they won’t slip and fall into it. That is the worst.
I just re read your article and loved it again. It makes me want to head back to India and take a southern route this time. Safe travels, Leif
Thanks Leif! I go through the very same stages. After going to the north, I can’t wait to return and visit the south and vice versa! There’s just too much country to explore in India and I always feel as if there is more to see.
Thank you Earl for this blog! I’m going to India at the end of August. After wading through all of the ”scary” stuff online I am now officially over the unnecessary fear and am ABSOLUTELY excited to fulfill this dream of mine =)
Thank you for reading Terry! And I’m honestly very glad that you are excited about your trip to India. Forget about what you read online. Just know that yes, it will be a challenge, it will be overwhelming at first, but if you take it slow, give yourself some time to adjust and make sure you spend time in smaller, laid back places instead of the huge cities, the chances of you loving India as well will be quite high.
If you have any other India questions before you head off on your trip please feel free to send me an email!
Hi Earl,
Admittedly, I’m arriving at your blog well post-India, but your passion for travel and obvious knack for writing inspired me to take a dip back into my own travel blog. I too was fortuante enough to visit India (this past March), though my trip was only 3 weeks in length.
Safe to say that after those 3 weeks, though, the travel bug has bitten, and I’m anxious to revisit some other side of the world. My hope is to perhaps teach in South Korea, and I see from your posts that you have some teaching experience, so I’ll certianly be digging through your old posts for some tips.
Anyway, thanks for the nudge to revisit some travel plans that have temporarily been put on the back burner! Suddenly I feel the need to consume large quantities of garlic naan and ghobi manchurian …
Happy travels!
Namaste Madeline! India tends to have that effect on people
It forces the traveler to want to explore new places, new lands and cultures. I understand that feeling all too well. Your plan to teach in S. Korea is a good one as that’s an excellent way to be overseas while earning decent money as well. And then from there, you’ll have plenty of other countries you can visit.
And you have no idea how I feel about Indian food. Even here in Mexico I make the one hour trip a few times a month just to eat at the only Indian restaurant in the area!
Earl,
I meant to ask you in my last comment, but did you ever get a chance to visit any Tibetan refuge communities while in India? I was fortunate enough to have my co-worker’s brother show me around one in the New Delhi area called Majnu Ka Tilla, or MT for short.
If you haven’t and you find yourself back in northern India, I can’t recommend MT enough! It was (perhaps a little ironically) one of my favorite parts of the trip. Stepping off the streets of Delhi and into the winding stone alleyways that make up MT is like exiting India and walking straight into Tibet. Life there is calmer, more relaxed. Plus, the food is fantastic to boot!
Hey Madeline – I have actually spent time in some of the Tibetan communities in India, including Majnu Ka Tilla. At one point I stayed in McLeod Ganj for a few months (and have visited this village several times over the years) and I also went to one of the refugee communities in the south, located near the town of “Ooty” (Udhagamandalam). These areas always offer a fascinating and welcome break from the rest of India and I do agree that the food is fantastic as well. Nothing like a bowl of thukpa and a plate of spinach and cheese momos!
great work i love ur website …
you shown me the real india .
Thanks for sharing
Luv your article. I’m Indian married to a Pakistani man – sadly he cannot visit India with me due to political rivalries between the two countries. We’re hoping things will improve by the time we both retire so we can explore this lovely diverse continent as both our ancestors come from there. We especially wish to visit the ancient historical sites like Mohanjodaro and Harrapa. Have you been there yet?
@WearitOut – I have not been to those two places and I’ve actually never heard of them before
But that’s what I love about India, you can spend a lifetime there and still not see all it has to offer!
Earl! I’m nearing the end of the European segment of my journey, and, to be honest, I’ve found myself rather jaded and disenchanted with travel Europe. It’s become a bit predictable and uninspiring (been here too long I think). Reading this post, I think I’ve finally decided where I’m going next…
Hey Steve – Well, I won’t argue with that decision! Let me know if you have any questions about India and I’d be more than happy to help you out….
Hi Earl,
I will be traveling to North India, Mumbai and Goa this March and April. Really excited.
And hopefully, I’m going to use some of your writings as a reference.
Hey Vishal – Thanks for commenting and your trip sounds excellent to me! I’m a huge fan of North India, especially places such as Amritsar, McLeod Ganj, the Spiti and Kinnaur Valleys, Rishikesh and my favorite town of all, Bundi, located in far eastern Rajasthan. Enjoy your adventure!
Since I have felt the undeniable yurning to travel, India has been the place that just wont let go, like those vendors know I’m coming, and they are yelling to me to hurry up and come over. When I finish getting my AA and have a nice little savings that’s the place I’m going, the one that starts it all. It’s just the kick in the pants I’ve always needed to stop being so uninvigoratingly nervous and dull. Thanks once again for being a nomad.
Hey Jeremy – In that case, you better make sure you do get to India at some point! It will indeed change your life forever.
Fantastic post! I might have to change my route through Asia so I can visit India!
Hey Patrick – Either way, hopefully we can meet up somewhere during your travels!
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I loved your post! Straight from the heart.
We traveled to India back in 1998 for about 3 weeks. Now we have two small children aged 8 and 10 and we are dying to return someday. And this year it will happen. Only for a short period, we don’t want to travel that long in India with our kids, not now. 10 days in North India before we move on to Thailand. It will be great, cannot wait…
Hey Emiel – That should be a great trip with your kids and I think they will also benefit from such an experience. There is no place like India and even children seem sense that when they’re there. Perhaps we’ll be in India at the same time as I’m planning to get there again this year as well!
Wow! This really gave me a good laugh! You are such a good writer. I would love to do India someday, but I’m afraid to go it alone. (especially after the kidnapping story!) Glad you were ok. Your life is amazing!
Hey Marg – Don’t worry the kidnapping story was in Bangladesh, which is infinitely more intense than India!
I’ve been to India only once — a stopover for an hour between Singapore and London. Read a post by an Indian expat working in the US who said that when he returned to India, the first thing that greeted him when the plane door opened was the smell. After years in the US, he had forgotten that India smells!
How did you stand the smell of India?
Hsiahshuang – The smell of India never bothered me and I never found it to be as bad as some people say. I think there’s a little exaggeration going on most of the time
Dear Earl,
I am currently in Kathmandu and after spending more than 2 weeks all over Nepal I can truly see what awaits for me in India…but in a much bigger scale! I am traveling alone since China chose to intefere with my plans (I was about to go to Tibet with my fellow Americans but as a Greek, I cannot travel with them. Thank you China for this unique opportunity!).
I’m leaving for Delhi this coming Tuesday and I cannot wait! I sadly have only 7 days and I can’t seem to be able to choose where to go. But as you’re saying, and as life has proven to me, I’ll just go with the flow and I’m sure I will find my way.
Once again, I love your blog! Keep up the great job!
Lina
Hey Lina – Have a safe trip to India tomorrow! Delhi is a great city in my opinion and you can easily reach a few other great destinations during the 7 days you have in that country. Of course, you might end up staying longer and changing your plans as India tends to have that effect on people
Great post, definitely indicative of my own feelings towards India. I spent a month there a year or so ago and loved it! The sights, sounds smells, and incredible people, most inviting and friendly I have ever met. My girlfriend is doing a charity thing there, where her and a couple pals will be given a rickshaw to ride from north to south, unguided! She is nervous but really looking forward to it. I think we will end up spending a good few months (or years!) there soon. Magical place.
Hi Earl,
Such an amazing life you have been leading! Truly inspiring..
And thanks for writing such beautiful stuff about India- I am an Indian (living in the US currently) and reading such good things about my country from foreigners strengthens the pride I have for my country. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Keep up the good work!
-Richa
(www.ourtravelpics.wordpress.com)
Hi Earl,
I’m starting to plan my RTW trip and for some reason I always thought of starting in India.
However, I undersand it can be quite a challenging country, with a huge cultural shock… Although there’s not doubt you love it and you manage to transcribe the enthusiasm you felt, you also hint at the fact that it might not be the easiest place to be, specially if one has’t travel that much and isn’t used to be outside the confort zone.
I also read that it’s a good idea not to jump to a completely different culture at the start of a trip like this for that same reason (cultural shock, the difficult of adjusting in the beginning, etc)
So, my question is whether you have any opinion regarding the idea of someone starting a first-time RTW trip in India. Should I pick some other country and go to India after I’ve been on “the road” for a bit longer, and more familiarized with my boundaries?
The reason I’m starting to ask this question is because I could imagine myself being a bit annoyed with the constant attempts to rip me off, the shady businesses, the schemes and the overall lack of rules… I don’t want to judge before I go, but I’m having a clue this is all part of the Indian experience… And I know one learns to accept and adjust, but as a starting country it does look like it can be offer some extra difficulties… I dunno, maybe it’s a silly question because it all comes down to each one, but if you feel like throwing your two cents I would love to hear!
Cheers!
Hey Luisa – It all depends on the person in terms of whether or not India is a good place to start one’s travels. However, because you are already talking about possibly being annoyed with certain aspects of India, then maybe it’s not the best place for you to begin your trip. Once you travel for a while and are able to handle those aspects without being annoyed or frustrated, then it would be a good time to visit India.
Hey EARL… Read all your posts, you are truly inspiring !! And I consider this post to be a honor, I am from India. Respect to you man
I am still studying, and do plan to complete my graduation in the USA within the next two years. After which really hope to travel for atleast a few years , obviously India is not on my list..have lived for 20 years here already 
Thank you for your help, inspiration and this post. Good luck to you ! 
Thanks for the comment Swathi and perhaps I shall see you out on the road once you begin your travels!
I sure hope so !!
Earl -
Kudos for your colorful description of India. We spent 3 months there in 2008 and had a miserable, wonderful, frustrating, enlightening, tiring, mind-blowing, death-defying, sensual-overloading time there. Only someone who has immersed themselves in India can understand why all of those adjectives can co-exist. Keep on truckin Earl. We (only) managed 18 months straight of backpacking, but it was from savings (and much later in life). And, I’m sure you would be shocked by this, first question from almost everyone : “How could you afford it? I could never do that.”
Joel
Hey Joel – That’s about as good a description of India as there can be…in fact, I just arrived in India today for another visit so I’m looking forward to experiencing all of those adjectives at the same time once again!
WOW that’s a great piece of writing and pretty much sums up the experience of India! I never actually saw a holy man drinking cow pee hahahahahhahahah, that’s crazy. Also, I thought the ear cleaning thing was a scam? An Indian I met there told me once “anything is possible In Hindustan”, he taught me the hindi for it, but it’s so long ago now, but that always stuck in my mind cos it’s so true!
Hey Helen – From what I’ve learned, the ear thing is often a scam when it’s offered in touristy areas. But I do know locals who get their ears cleaned and I see it happening all the time on the sidewalks of Delhi. And I believe the words you were looking for are: Sab Kuch Milega, which approximately translates to anything is possible
Namaste Earl …
Wow !!! Never looked at my own country like that…. Your article has definitely given a new perspective …
But i have a complain….
Whenever any traveller comes to India.. his preferred location of visit will mostly be either crowded cities or Himalayas … Very few people come to North eastern states (Assam, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Tripura and Sikkim). You are welcome to our homes, our mountains, our rivers and waterfalls, and to our hearts.
We believe in the mantra of “Atithi Devo Bhawa” (A guest is A God ).
Hope you will visit us soon !!!
Thanks Rahul – I’ve actually been to Assam and Meghalaya and had a wonderful time there. It was several years ago when I went but I loved it out there…such a different India. Hopefully more people will start traveling to that region as well as it has so much to offer!
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You have captured the essence of India very well… the sights, the smells, warts and all. we have not one India but many India each separate yet united like pearls in a necklace…. we have a saying here in India….
” We are like that only
)
@desi Traveler – Such a perfect saying for your fascinating country!
I’ve been traveling China for four months and this is exactly how I feel every day.
Looks like India could be next. Easy to get an English teaching gig there? But is it safe for a small, blonde Pennsylvanian? Curious.
Hey Sam – It really depends. You can find work teaching English but you won’t make much money at all, if you make any money, as most of the opportunities are volunteer. The thing is that English is widely spoken in India so the market for teachers is smaller. As for being safe though, if you use the same common sense you would use at home or anywhere else in the world, India will be just as safe.
Hi Earl,
Sucha beautiful article about our India. I really loved it. Its like, someone from outside understands her so well. First time I read all good things about India. Its true every aspect has good n the bad, but should always focus on good to be happy n yet improve your negatives.
Am glad I read this … N i want more
)
Do visit Delhi and write an article about it too.
Ardent Travleler Fan
Ritika