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Playa del Carmen: Such A Good Place To Live

Playa del Carmen

When many people think of Playa del Carmen, Mexico, they automatically think of a heavily touristed party destination for Americans. As a result, it’s no surprise that many independent travelers don’t really have a desire to visit this town at all.

However, every now and then, some independent travelers do end up here, usually when en route to or from Central America, and of course, most of these travelers, at least the ones I’ve met, typically have the same initial reaction upon arrival.

“Playa del Carmen is not for me.”

And I can understand that. For those in search of wild adventures in new and exotic lands, seeing a gringo as soon as you get off the bus, one wearing an over-sized sombrero while inhaling a constant stream of beer from a neon purple, 3-foot long plastic drinking vessel, is not a good start.

Just walking down the street, passing t-shirt shops and sports bars, seems to lead many travelers to declare, “What am I doing here?” and to start thinking about their next destination.

THE TRANSFORMATION

Actually, about four years ago, I backpacked through Playa del Carmen during a brief one month trip to Mexico. And not surprisingly, I stuck around for only 2 days, not wanting to spend another minute here. It simply wasn’t the type of travel experience I look for at all and after one walk along La Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue), which is a mile-long, pedestrian-only street full of cafes, restaurants, boutique hotels, bars and shops geared towards tourists, I was ready to head elsewhere.

After all, more than any other form of travel, I am at my utmost happiest when I am traveling around destinations where very few travelers care or dare to visit at all. These are the adventures that I live for and that prove the most rewarding to me.

So what am I doing here right now, right in the middle of touristland, if I had such a forgettable experience in Playa del Carmen only a few years ago?

Well, the interesting thing about Playa del Carmen is that the people who stick around for a while, beyond that initial “Get me the hell out of here!” phase, tend to undergo a drastic transformation, one that has happened to just about every friend, family member and traveler who has visited me here. Their initial disappointment suddenly turns into an intense attraction, and instead of looking for the next ticket out of town, people start asking me for apartment recommendations instead.

The phrase of the day then becomes: “I could easily live here for a while!”

And that’s the key. They could easily LIVE here for a while, which is much different than visiting this town as part of a Latin America backpacking adventure.

WHY I LIVE HERE

These days, I love Playa del Carmen. I wouldn’t have spent so much time here last year, and then returned this year, if I didn’t find it to be a perfect place to live. I may enjoy traveling through remote and barely accessible regions of the world, but I certainly wouldn’t want to live in those places for an extended period of time, at least not right now. And due to the nature of my digital work, I need to spend about half of each year living in one place, as it’s too difficult to get significant work accomplished while on the road.

From what I’ve discovered so far, Playa del Carmen offers a combination of impressive benefits that is difficult to ignore for anyone looking to live overseas, especially if you prefer to live near the beach.

What are these benefits exactly?

HASSLE-FREE ENTRY

Most nationalities receive a free 6-month tourist visa upon arrival, making it quite easy to stick around for a while. And if you leave Mexico and then return, even if it is only a couple of days later, you’ll receive another 6-month visa valid from the date of your reentry. Working visas are a little more complicated to obtain, but nothing that a lawyer can’t sort out for a couple hundred dollars, especially if you’re hired by a Mexican company or take the necessary steps to start your own business here.

CONVENIENCE

Playa del Carmen SignFor those of us who are from the US or Canada, Mexico is a most convenient foreign destination. The airport in Cancun (which is located 45 minutes north of Playa del Carmen) is very well connected, with regular non-stop flights to cities such as Fort Lauderdale, New York, Boston, Houston, Raleigh, St. Louis, Philadelphia, Denver, Chicago, San Francisco, Phoenix, Calgary, Edmonton, Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver. As for me, the flight from Mexico to Florida, where my family now lives, is significantly shorter and cheaper than a flight from almost anywhere else in the US to Florida.

And even for Europeans, there are frequent, direct flights to/from Belgium, UK, Switzerland, Spain, Italy, Germany and France, making Cancun a surprisingly simple destination to reach.

WORK OPPORTUNITIES

If you’re not a digital nomad, Playa del Carmen offers a handful of work opportunities that could help you pocket some money while living down here, although a good working knowledge of the Spanish language would be needed. Under the table jobs are available in bars, restaurants, hostels and small hotels and you could always try to teach English (or Italian, French or German) informally. In addition, you could apply to work as a Timeshare salesperson at one of the dozens of resorts in the area, as they prefer to hire foreigners for these potentially well-paid positions.

And for those who simply require an internet connection to get your work done, most apartments come with Wi-fi and there are at least a dozen cafes around town that offer air-conditioned lounges with comfortable seating and Wi-fi (and that don’t mind you sitting there for a few hours working and sipping one cup of coffee).

HEALTHY LIFESTYLE

Playa del Carmen has an abundance of sun, fresh tropical breezes, white sand beaches and warm Caribbean waters, all of which seem to play a role in keeping the body feeling healthy. You’ll also find a never-ending supply of tropical fruits and freshly-prepared fruit juices available for sale on every street corner. Throw in free dance and yoga classes in the park, a public sports complex complete with well-maintained basketball courts, tennis courts and a running track, as well as several modern gyms that offer inexpensive monthly memberships, and it’s difficult to avoid living a healthy lifestyle.

TOURISM

Yes, the throngs of vacationers that flock to Playa del Carmen are actually a major benefit for anyone thinking about living here for a month or more. How is this possible?

To put it simply, tourism equals infrastructure.

It may very well be that, during a travel adventure, we thoroughly enjoy sitting on the floor of an old, rusty, overcrowded bus, bouncing along a dirt road for 27 hours just to reach a destination that is 100 kms from where we started. However, I’m willing to bet that most of us don’t really want to go through that very same experience every time we need to go to the market to buy tomatoes.

Playa del Carmen Colectivog

Thanks to tourism, getting around the entire region that surrounds Playa del Carmen (known as the Mayan Riviera) is not only easy, but comfortable and inexpensive as well. Air-conditioned minivans travel between every town and village in the Mayan Riviera, often leaving every 15 minutes and running 24 hours a day. The cost to travel anywhere in the region is rarely more than $3 – $4 per trip and for an additional 50 cents or so you can even take a luxury bus, complete with free Wi-fi and plush seats.

The roads here are some of the best in Mexico, the taxi operation is well-organized and uses a simple flat rate system, car rentals are cheap and the beaches are kept in immaculate condition. And it’s all thanks to tourism.

A VARIETY OF FOOD

When I’m traveling, I almost never eat anything but the local cuisine of whatever country I happen to be visiting (the exception being Indian food, which I will eat anywhere I find it). So for the most part, you won’t see me eating sushi in Honduras or enchiladas while in Malaysia.

However, when I’m actually living somewhere for an extended period of time, I do prefer to have a variety of cuisine available, because truthfully, one does get bored when eating the same food for several months in a row (again, except for Indian food of course!).

Lebanese Food in Playa del Carmen

Luckily, as a result of having so many tourists from around the world vacation here, Playa del Carmen offers an excellent selection of Italian, Japanese, Middle Eastern, French, Spanish, Chinese, South American and German restaurants in addition to the endless local Mexican eateries scattered all over town.

There are also supermarkets, fruit and vegetable markets, organic markets and even shops that sell the ingredients necessary for one to prepare any type of international cuisine at home. I’ve found Thai curry powder imported directly from Thailand, homemade pesto from Tuscany and even grape leaves from Lebanon.

COST OF LIVING

For many people, this is the one factor that makes or breaks any destination, in terms of deciding whether or not a place is suitable for long-term living. I’ll be honest, in terms of costs, Playa del Carmen is no Chiang Mai, Thailand, where comfortable, perfectly-located studio apartments can be rented for $300 US per month and large plates of freshly prepared Thai food barely cost $1. Things in Playa del Carmen are a little more expensive than that, but in comparison to other destinations, and especially in comparison to what I would need to spend in the US for a similar lifestyle, it’s still remarkably cheap.

For those on very tight budgets, you could definitely survive here for around $600 US per month. On the other hand, if you have $1000 US per month to spend, then you could live very well, with about as much to worry about in life as this guy:

Man in Playa del Carmen

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97 Responses to Playa del Carmen: Such A Good Place To Live

  1. Umm, it seems I’ve managed to end up in a place with no convenience, transport system, choice of food and that’s really expensive to live. I clearly didn’t think this through properly, did I? ;)

    • Earl says:

      Hey Heather – Haha… well, I’m sure that Lapland has it’s own set of benefits to offer those who live there. Lots of outdoor activities I’d imagine and all of that natural beauty!

      Although, I know that I personally wouldn’t be able to handle the climate. I prefer to be in a place where I can wear sandals every day :)

  2. Lily says:

    How interesting! I went to Playa del Carmen about 4 years ago and thought it was pretty but definitely touristy. I never thought of it as a place to live but like you said I only stayed a long weekend…good to know about the other side!

    • Earl says:

      Hey Lily – That’s usually how it goes. But the longer you stay, the more you begin to discover that other side of Playa del Carmen and understand why so many people are starting to move here from other countries. In terms of quality of life, it doesn’t get much better than what Playa can offer.

      • Patricia says:

        Hi Earl:

        It is fascinating what you are doing. I am thinking about going to Playa for a month or two. Needs to be done cheaply and safely but if you could recommend any rentals that would be great. Hopefully under $600.00 per month. I am looking at Feb and possibly March. I do not need anything fancy at all – just clean and safe – able to walk to beach and grocery store.

        Thanks,

        Patricia

        • Earl says:

          Hey Patricia – For under $600 per month, you’ll definitely have some options although they will be a little more limited at that time as Feb-March is a part of the high season in terms of tourism. But here’s a list of some places that you might want to check out:

          *Kaa’Xel* This was my second choice when I moved down there and is in an even better location than where I lived. The woman who manages the building showed us a very nice 1 Bedroom apartment for around $650/month. It’s clean and large with a balcony and swimming pool, only 2 blocks from La Quinta Avenida (the main street in town).

          Contact – +52 19982123434 (if this number doesn’t work, try it without the first ’1′)

          *Nice 1 BR Apartments* (sorry, no name on the building): Brand new cozy apartments built by a nice Italian guy and being rented for around $600/month although you can probably negotiate as it’s low season now. Great location, actually just three blocks from where I lived on the same street.

          Contact – Alessandro +52 19841087442

          *Villas del Carmen* Small apartments down the road from where I lived. I actually didn’t have a chance to see the inside but they seem to be decent from the outside and there are other foreigners living there. I’d be surprised if these were more than $500/month or so.

          Contact – +52 19841469644

          *Posada Flamingos* Studio apartments in a great location. Small, simple building. I haven’t seen the inside here either but anything in this area is
          decent.

          Contact – +52 19982580210

          *Hotel Hora Feliz* Great studio apartments located 3 minutes from the main street in town and 5 minutes walking from the beach. The building is owned by another Italian guy, Marco, and the studios are all well-kept, spacious and with plenty of light. He will probably quote you a very high price but if you tell him you won’t use the air-conditioner (and use fans instead), he’ll normally offer you an apartment for around $500 – $600 / month.

          Contact – http://www.horafelizplaya.com

          *Croc Condos* (search for them on Facebook and you’ll see their details on their Fan Page): They offer small, dark and cheap studio apartments in a great location but they also have a couple of 1 Bedroom apartments that are a little more money but are very good value. And for around $750 USD per month you can rent the penthouse apartment which is an amazing place to stay.

          Those are definitely some good options to start with and I’ve sent quite a few people to Hotel Hora Feliz and Croc Condos and everyone has been quite happy!

  3. I have fond memories of Playa Del Carmen. In my early twenties, I would often fly there for a week at a time by myself and meet all sorts of interesting locals. It’s definitely not a bad place to live. :)

    • Earl says:

      Hey Christy – This would be such a great place to do that…to just take off for a week for a random trip. The locals here are great, very easy to connect with and very welcoming as well. And yes, living here is not too bad either! I highly recommend it :)

  4. Readily available tropical fruits and white sandy beaches – I’m sold!

    I can’t wait to go now :)

    • Earl says:

      Hey James – Those are the two aspects that really drew me in as well! Looking forward to having you down here for a while. Not long to go now…

  5. Jason says:

    It’s great to plot in places every now and then, and Playa del Carmen, sounds just as good as anywhere. Kick back and enjoy, and in such an environment with good internet you will no doubt get those fingers tapping on that next eBook mate.

    • Earl says:

      Hey Jason – Tapping away indeed…although it’s a bit difficult sometimes to sit down in front of my computer when a white sand beach is only a few minutes away :)

  6. Pete Heck says:

    I would have never even thought of living in PDC, but the case you make, it might be a decent place to settle for a while. And wi-fi on buses? I am a human time capsule, never even knew they had this yet….

    PS the sushi in Honduras is fine (well at least here in Roatán, maybe not on the mainland ;)

    • Earl says:

      Hey Pete – Haha…well, welcome to modern times :) There’s wi-fi everywhere down here. Even the supermarkets have free wi-fi for some reason.

      And good to know about the sushi in Honduras. On my next visit I’ll have to get a recommendation for a place in Roatan!

  7. Thanks for the shout-out my friend. You have the advantage of beaches, I will give you that…for a bit more than CM, Thailand you get crystal clear waters…that’s a big plus. Add to that my recent cravings for Mexican and maybe we can switch places for a bit?! ;-)

    • Earl says:

      Hey Shannon – No need to switch places…there’s plenty of room for everyone down here! The beaches are definitely a huge bonus. They never get old, nor does going for a quick swim in the warm waters every day. So when should I expect you?? :)

  8. Lash says:

    Hey EArl,

    You certainly make a convincing stance on Playa del Carmen! It does sound great and the white sands on long beaches are stunning. Sounds very similar to the places I’ve been living/ staying in SE Asia. I’ll definitely go visit when I pass through Mexico…

    THanks for the post, Lash

    • Earl says:

      Hey Lash – Playa does have a similar feel to many places in SE Asia, which is probably another reason why I like it so much down here. A laid-back tropical destination is always a winner, no matter where it is located!

  9. Elizabeth says:

    I completely agree with you… I love Playa del Carmen and it is a great place to be. The beaches are breath taking, the rent is not expensive and everything is walking distance.

  10. Terry says:

    Another possibility to put on my retirement list! But how is it for the older crowd? Would a person feel safe walking at night?

    • Earl says:

      Hey Terry – Playa del Carmen is very safe. I actually just replied to an email earlier today in which a reader asked a similar question and I told him that I never feel unsafe here, no matter what part of town I happen to be in and no matter what time of day or night it is. It’s a very laid-back, friendly town that doesn’t have much crime at all.

      For the older crowd, you’ll find a large community of retirees living here from the US, Canada and Europe, making it quite easy to settle in. There are literally people of all ages living here, all attracted to the simple, relaxed lifestyle.

      If you have any other questions feel free to send me an email and I’d be more than happy to answer them as best I can!

  11. Dave says:

    Thanks for writing this. I would’ve never expected to find you in Playa del Carmen, but I totally get the appeal. Like you I enjoy traveling to far flung places, but appreciate creature comforts and good infrastructure!

    • Earl says:

      Hey Dave – Exactly. When it comes time to concentrate on work, far flung places are not ideal at all. Some good wi-fi, comfortable apartments, an abundance of cafes and of course, white sand beaches, are a much better option!

  12. Ah this post brings back memories. I spent some time in that area and loved it. I don’t mind some of the more touristy places as long as there are quieter nooks nearby. Mexico definitely has a lot to offer and that 6 month visa sounds great!

    • Earl says:

      @Untemplater: Touristy places seem to automatically get a bad reputation sometimes by independent travelers but they also can offer a lifestyle that is hard to beat when living overseas. And knowing where to go to get away from all the activity does make a difference. Here in Playa, one simply needs to walk 20 minutes north along the main beach and you end up with a stretch of perfect white sand all to yourself!

  13. Erin says:

    I had been wondering why a guy who loves getting off the beaten track was spending so much time in a tourist town, and this post has answered my questions! I completely understand the need for good infrastructure when living somewhere for a while, and the more you get to know a place the easier it is to avoid the tourists.

    We are tempted to live there for a while at some point, although Chiang Mai is calling us for later in the year.

    • Earl says:

      Hey Erin – I’m definitely willing to give up a few months of off the beaten track travel each year to be in a place that allows me to accomplish more work in one day than I can accomplish in one month on the road! It just seems to make sense these days. And then I don’t have to worry so much about work during the months that I’m traveling around somewhere.

      Chiang Mai is obviously a great place to live as well and probably will be a good change for you guys after your South America adventures. Although Playa del Carmen would let you keep up with your Spanish :)

  14. Rob says:

    Love the last photo, have not explored C. & S. America, thanks for putting this on my radar.

    • Earl says:

      Hey Rob – That guy in the last photo would be in that chair for at least five hours every day. I used to live in an apartment building across the street and could see him from my window. Talk about a relaxed life!

  15. Elle says:

    Ah yes, the famous drinks by the yard from Señor Frogs. Once you get over the initial gaudiness of all of the gringos and start digging around to find the authentic Mexican experience, Playa del Carmen, and Cozumel for that matter, isn’t a bad place.

    • Earl says:

      Hey Elle – Luckily down here all you need to do is walk one block away from La Quinta Avenida and the tourism just disappears. I always find it fascinating how Playa is such a touristy place but all of that tourism is concentrated in such a small part of the town!

  16. Shane says:

    I live in a similar sounding town in Turkey so can see your reasoning. Except to visit the Temple of Apollo I doubt I would have come here as a visitor but as a place to live it has its attractions.

    • Earl says:

      Hey Shane – That’s right, some of the best places to live have nothing to do with the best places to visit. We don’t need constant attractions to visit if we’re planning on staying in one place for a while. Having a somewhat comfortable, healthy lifestyle is much more important.

  17. Giulia says:

    Sounds like a great place to live! And yes I wouldn’t mind having as much to worry about as that guy in the picture. Oh and I could teach Italian there? Interesting!

    Only one thing my inner picky Italian is asking me to tell you: pesto is not from Tuscany, so that must have been a touristy version :p

    • Earl says:

      Hey Giulia – You could easily teach Italian here! With such a large Italian community, the locals are very interested in learning Italian as well. You’d probably have an easier time finding students than those who want to teach English :)

      As for the pesto, thank you for clearing that up. Although it is funny because I saw it in the most expensive Italian-owned Italian grocery in town and the only people that shop there are generally Italians!

  18. Great article, thanks for sharing it. I’ve lived in Cancun for almost eight years and get frustrated by travelers who only give the area one glance and leave. Sure, first sights are pretty touristy, but ask around and you’ll be off the beaten track in no time. Like you say, one or two blocks off 5th in Playa and it’s a different city. Same with Cancun,don’t go to the hotel zone and you won’t find the sombrero-wearing fuzzy drink guzzlers.

    The best part of living in Cancun for me is getting out of Cancun every weekend. I hop in the car and hit the road, looking for hidden cenotes, secret beaches and tiny ruins sites. Living here gives me the opportunity to have a good job, a great school for my son and convenience while allowing me to be an adventurer on my days off.

    Glad you’re enjoying Playa (though it’s a bit touristy for my weekend adventures, haha!)

    • Earl says:

      @CancunCanuck: I easily could have written this post about Cancun as well as I agree with what you said completely. I enjoy heading up to Cancun for a day every now and then and contrary to popular belief, you could spend a week there and not even come across another foreigner. And this entire region certainly does offer an endless selection of adventures…I just might have to pick your brain and find out what your favorite hidden beaches are :)

      And if you ever do head down to Playa at all, do let me know!

      • Jo-Anne says:

        Earl- I love this article. I’ve been thinking of living in PDC for awhile now. I just completely feel at home and at peace in PDC. It’s always in the back of my mind. My husband is an elementary teacher…so I’m thinking the best opportunity for him is to teach English. But, how in demand is teaching English in PDC/Cancun area? What business opportunities would thrive in the area? I got married in PDC and I know how sought after PDC is when it comes to weddings. I’m thinking a business that targets the wedding market would be successful as long as it’s marketed effectively.

        @CancunCanuck- If you don’t mind me asking, what kind of job do you do in Cancun? I have a son myself…who is only a few months old…but for the near future, what type of school is your son attending? Is it a private or international school? Great to know for future reference.

        Thanks so much for your help.

        • Earl says:

          Hey Jo-Anne – While it might be possible to find a gig teaching English down here in PDC, it is admittedly much harder to do so than in other parts of Mexico. The tourism industry is so strong here that English is already widely spoken. Rarely do I meet anyone that doesn’t know at least the basics of English.

          As for other business ideas, it’s difficult to say what might work and might not. Any business that focuses on tourists will run into quite a lot of competition but that’s not to say that you can’t be successful. I’d recommend spending more time down here observing different business ideas that you think you’d enjoy and how they are already run here. Once you find a business idea that you feel you can improve upon and do better than the existing competition (after observing how they operate), you may just find your answer!

        • Earl, will let you know next time I am down your way!

          Joanne, I work in tourism, social media marketing (I am very fortunate, I “must” go on tours, stay in hotels, take photos, write about it and share on Facebook and Twitter).

          My son goes to a private school, though not an “American” school (it’s actually very tiny, only 9 children in his class) and I have been thrilled with his education. I hope it’s ok to share a link here, I recently wrote a post about what my son had to know for his kindergarten final exams. http://www.cancuncanuck.com/2011/06/final-countdown.html

  19. I feel like sun-bathing guy deserves his own Mexican TV show.

    • Earl says:

      Hey Nick – He certainly does although the show would have to come to him as I doubt there is anything that could motivate him to get up off of that lounge chair.

  20. I really can see where you are coming from with this. Too often our first impressions can be wrong if is only we can get past that initial thought. For many its hard to do simply because they are only there for a short period perhaps only 2 or 3 days.

    • Earl says:

      @Bluegree Kirk: You’re absolutely right and it’s definitely understandable that people’s impression of a place will be different based upon the amount of time they spend there. Luckily I learned this lesson a while ago or else I would never have thought to live here in Playa and missed out on such a great destination!

  21. Clara says:

    Great post! I haven’t been to Playa del Carmen, but now I want to go. Thanks for all of the detailed information!

  22. Sabrina says:

    Sounds like a great place to live! I never knew that even work visas were fairly easy to get. That’s a huge benefit. Working in the US as a European has been great, but the immigration paperwork and requirements are a pain. I’ve been planning to visit the Cancun area for a while now… which season would you recommend as the best to come?

    • Earl says:

      Hey Sabrina – As for the best season, it all depends on how much you like the heat! The winter is high season and so it is very crowded down here, but the temperatures are quite comfortable, even cool at times. The summer is very hot (the other day it was 36 C) but it’s low season so things are much cheaper during these months and it’s not crowded with tourists at all. It also rains a bit during the summer but usually just once a day for 30 minutes or so.

      I personally love hot weather so I prefer the summer but the heat is not for everyone!

      • Sabrina says:

        Thanks for that info. 36 C actually doesn’t sound too bad. We have that almost every second day here in West Texas in the summer too :) And I like heat – Ok, I have to admit, after a few weeks in August at the Red Sea, I was ready to reconsider, but if 36 C is as bad as it gets, I’m in.

  23. Great post Earl. You gotta love cheap food, affordable living, and solid infrastructure…not to mention the beaches. Maybe we’ll see you there.

    • Earl says:

      Hey Vago – That’s about as good of a combination as I know of! Do let me know if you make it this way…

  24. Juno says:

    True! Yes, you never know which place is going to be your home. I’m looking for one too. I”ve live in my hometown for over two decades but I don’t feel like home. I don’t want to ‘live’ here. But I felt home at quite a few places.
    I’m not sure Playa del Carmen is the place for me but I will check it out with open mind! :)

  25. Karen says:

    Playa del Carmen is one of my most favorite vacation destinations in the whole world for many of the reasons you mention above. Although I’ve never thought of living there full-time, I have thought (seriously!) about staying there for much longer than the one week I usually visit…it’s gorgeous!

  26. Daniel says:

    Hi man! I live in Playa del Carmen too!! Ive read several post of your blog from the recommendations of Colin Wright at his facebook but didnt know you lived in my town! thats awesome! and Im on digital business aswell and we are definitely like minded people! would love to get together some day soon whaddaya say?…I usually go out to work at ah cacao café at 30 street and 5th…let me know, cheers!!

    • Earl says:

      Hey Daniel – Too funny. I typically spend my days working at the Ah Cacao on Constituyentes and 5th! I’ll send you an email now and we can plan to meet up.

  27. Hello Earl, I loved this post! It’s funny because I’ve rented a house on Cozumel before, but never thought of renting in Playa del Carmen! I love Mexico and the coast South of Cozumel, but I had “resort fatigue” and didn’t feel like going all-inclusive anymore. The idea of having my own apartment there sounds like a perfect vacation. I was wondering if you could recommend good apartment rental agencies that offer great choices over there? Thanks!

    • Earl says:

      Hey Marie – Thank you for the comment! The thing with Playa del Carmen is that if you use an actual apartment rental agency (especially one that you can find on the internet), you’ll end up paying vacation rental prices, which are typically 3-4 times the normal rents. The best way to find a place here is to arrive and spend an afternoon walking around the center of town, calling the phone numbers on all of the “Se Renta” signs on the apartment buildings. This way you’ll get in touch directly with the local owners or with a local real estate agent (who isn’t in the business of renting places to foreigners) and as a result, you’ll be able to find great apartments for much more reasonable prices.

      This is what I’ve done every time I’ve looked for an apartment here and so far this has worked out quite well. I’ve had friends come down who rented a place online before they arrived and paid as much as $2000 US for a month. I’m not paying anything even close to that amount and have a very nice 2BR apartment in the center.

      • Thank you for your reply! Arriving in Playa Del Carmen without having a guaranteed place to live is a little adventurous for me, but knowing it always worked out for you is reassuring. Would you say negociating with locals is possible in English (and little or no knowledge of Spanish)?

        • Earl says:

          Hey Marie – Actually, it all depends on how long you’re looking to stay down here for. If you’re only planning to stay for 1 or 2 weeks, then the prices are going to be quite high, even if you arrive without a place and look around. For this amount of time, I would recommend staying at one of the cheap, but very nice, boutique hotels in town which only charge around $35 US per night.

          If you’re planning to stay for at least 1 month, then send me an email and I can forward you a couple of recommendations of good apartments. As for negotiating, it is possible to do it in English but you will definitely get a lower rent if you can negotiate in Spanish. However, I do know of one option that can help you get local rates without speaking Spanish which I’ll explain in my reply to your email.

  28. Roy says:

    Hey Earl, Great read. My wife and I spent three months there about a year ago and loved it as well. We are thinking of going back to live. I work via the internet and need a strong, steady connection. Do you know the best part of the city to live in to obtain this?

    • Earl says:

      Hey Roy – The good part about Playa del Carmen is that the internet is very strong here. Most apartments come with good wi-fi and the only area of town that does not have internet are the furthermost outskirts, where chances are you won’t be living. There really is nothing to worry about at all in terms of internet. I rely on the internet for most of my work and have never had an issue!

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  30. Scott says:

    Thanks for the insights. I am planning on being in Mexico & SA for a few months next year and will need to stay somewhere for at least a month or so to find some work and just chill out, so Playa has made my list, thanks!

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  32. Jasmine says:

    This sounds so appealing right now… I’d love to spend a month or so on the beach just working and wiling away the days. Just added Playa del Carmen to my list :)

    • Earl says:

      Hey Jasmine – It definitely deserves a place on your list. The community of bloggers and nomads is growing rapidly over here…and for good reason!

  33. Playa del Carmen is amazing! I so loved this place!

  34. stephan says:

    Hey Earl, me and a friend will most likely be moving to Playa in Jan/Feb for the foreseeable future for work. Really enjoyed reading about the town and can’t wait to get to live there! It sounds like we are quite lucky to be sent there! We are looking for either a 3 bedroom apt, or perhaps a 4-5 bedroom house, wondering if you know of any people we could get in contact with? Thanks!

    • Earl says:

      Hey Stephan – Thanks for the message and I think you’ll enjoy yourself in Playa for sure. Not a bad place to be working from at all. I actually don’t know anyone that is offering such a large apartment or house. Most of what I’ve found have been 1 or 2 bedroom apartments. You can probably find 4-5 bedroom homes in the Playacar area, which is a semi-gated section just south of town. It’s a great place to live, except that it’s a bit too far out to walk into town. But in the main central part of town, I really haven’t seen anything that large unfortunately. It is quite a small town in the end :)

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  36. katie says:

    Hi Earl, I am planning to move ton PDC in a few weeks. I have been living in Cabo San Lucas for a year and decided it was enough for me and now I am beginning my new adventure on the other side of Mexico. I have been looking into apartment rentals in PDC and have stumbled across a few that were in my price range, however most were rentals for tourists. I need something more long term as I plan to reside there for a while ( 6 months min). I would only like to pay about $300-$400 us a month and I need something pet friendly as I do have small, well behaved beagle who will be travelling with me. I found one really good website: http://www.airbnb.com bu sill haven’t found anything yet. Do you know of any other websites or rental companies close to the center of town? I need something within walking distance to the main streets and the beaches.Please let me know. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Katie (Canada)

    • Earl says:

      Hey Katie – To find something in that price range, that’s quite decent and in the center of town, might be a challenge, especially considering that it is currently high season in PDC. However, my recommendation would be to check out VivaStreet.com.mx and check the real estate classifieds there as you’ll find local listings that are not being offered by agencies that cater only to foreigners. The site is in Spanish but you’ll find excellent options in all price ranges!

      • katie says:

        sweet! I actually saw the listings you posted after I sent the message haha..I probably should have read your entire article first! so I had my work cut out for me yesterday with emails and phone calls. I have been in contact with Melissa from Croccondos and since I am moving in the middle of the month she is going to give me a studio apt for $300 for 2 weeks which I think is a pretty good deal considering its completely furnished and super close to everything not to mention my dog is allowed to be there! Do you think this is a good place to start?

        • Earl says:

          That’s an excellent place to start Katie! It’s about ten minutes walk away from everything and they are very friendly over there. Also, just ask them where the restaurant Sabor X is. It’s a small, open-air family run place just down the road on Avenida 10 and they serve incredible home made breakfasts and dinners for around 20 – 50 pesos.

          Definitely a good choice you made!

          • katie says:

            Great! and I will definitly check out sabor x..I’m always down for a good, cheap breakfast :) Thanks for all of your help with this, it definitly made things more relaxed for me..now I am all set..I just need to get there!

  37. Lindsey says:

    Earl,

    I think it is amazing what you do and am very envious of you! I just got back yesterday from Mexico. I went to Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and Isla Mujeres. I fell in love wi Playa and I have thought about how I could swing living there for awhile. It’s always been a dream of mine to live somewhere by myself and I think Playa is a great place to do so.

    Do you know if it is possible to rent a studio apartment for a month or would it have ti be for longer than that? I’m hoping my job will permit me to go away for that long, especially since I’ve already been gone for almost 2 weeks.

    I would appreciate any advice you can give me and I will be reading more of the comments on your page later today. I think it is so incredible what you have been doing and I would love to do something like what you do, at least for a little while ;)

    Thanks,
    Lindsey

    • Earl says:

      Hey Lindsey – Thanks for the comment and you’ll definitely be able to rent a studio for a month in Playa. There are plenty of foreigners who come down there for a month or so and as a result, there are dozens and dozens of apartments that will gladly rent out places for such a period of time. If you want some specific contact details for some good apartments that I know of, just send me an email and I’d be more than happy to send the info over to you!

  38. Mickey says:

    Reading this and missing Playa – been there twice, once with the wife and 2nd time with her and our 2 kids – loved it both times. I could definitely live in Playa.

    I work in Fitness equipment – seen plenty of hotels with really run down equipment…wonder if there’s opportunity for extended working vacations there…

    I paid $1200 usd for a week at a 2 bdrm condo at Riviera Maya Suites (Behind Las Palapas) – which was very nice but would like to cut the cost next time if i can get something just as nice.

    • Earl says:

      Hey Mickey – Thanks for the comment and you can definitely find something for less money than that. I lived in a wonderful 2 BR apartment four blocks from the beach and I paid a little more than half that amount for one month. And I’m sure you’d be able to work on your fitness equipment idea. That’s the kind of creativity needed to find ways to earn a living overseas!

  39. nina says:

    Hi Earl.i`m so glad that i found this blog.First..i`m from finland so my english isn`t that great,but hope you will understand..=)

    I`m coming to playa this april,and would be very grateful if you could tell me some advice about where i could find a apartment for rent?

    My budget is max.645dollars/month..Is it possible to find anything for that price from 5avenue or near there?

    And second..where should i go to find some good but cheap food?
    Because i have been there once,last summer for 2weeks,and the food was
    surprisingly expensive.But we were at the tourist area because weren’t sure
    if it`s safe for us to leave there.

    I would really like to see the hole town,and not just the 5av. area.
    But wondering is it safe,because i`m alone and a blond girl.

    best wishes Nina=)

    • Earl says:

      Hey Nina – Thanks for the comment. First, Playa del Carmen is super-safe and you will have no problems at all wandering anywhere in town. This is the reason why thousands of foreigners from around the world move and live here :) When I was living there I would go to 5th Avenue maybe once per week and I basically stayed in the less touristy parts of town and never had a single problem. Food on 5th Avenue is going to be expensive, as is the case in any tourist destination but as soon as you walk a couple of blocks away, it all changes.

      Even one block away on 15th Avenue, near the corner of 10th Street there are four or five small restaurants/food stalls next to each other that serve great, cheap tortas, quesadillas, gorditas, tacos and more. And then, just head to 30th Avenue, between about 14th – 30th streets and you’ll find several local restaurants with excellent food for little money.

      Once you get to know the town better you’ll find endless places where you can eat well for less than 50 pesos!

      As for apartments, just read through the other comments on this post. I’ve listed several apartment options that you might want to try. For your budget you probably won’t find anything right on 5th Avenue as those tend to cost $1000 or more but you’d be able to find a nice apartment a few blocks back, somewhere around 20th avenue, which is still just a few minutes walk to the beach.

  40. kate says:

    so question – ill possibly be going here for an internship. my accomodation will be provided. so for all the other living costs – food drink travel etc how much per a month do you think i would spend? any advice muchly appreciated

    • Earl says:

      Hey Kate – It all depends on what kind of places you eat at and how much nightlife you plan to experience. Food can cost $10 or $20 USD per meal if you eat in the main tourist area or an amazing local meal can be had for $3 or $4 just a few blocks away. Groceries are quite inexpensive at the supermarkets as well. Nightlife is expensive though and if you go to clubs and the main bars, you can expect to pay $5 – $10 per drink. Overall, it’s quite possible to spend around $750 USD per month to live very well but you’d need about $1000 if you plan to go out at night more often…

  41. Chris says:

    I have been wandering the earth for the past 5 years with no real home and now looking for a place with good internet and a hot climate to stay for awhile, I’m tired. At 58 I grew up on and worked on the Caribbean waters for years. My 2 adult sons will meet me down in Mexico in June for business and to start their Latin travels south. My eldest son a Traveller like me, a financial investor like me, needs his wisdom teeth removed on his way through Mexico. My question, is there two tier pricing for foreigners like there is in many parts of the world. I have been in contact with at least 2 dozen dentist online regarding prices and it seems their prices are way over priced. I will be arriving in Cancun from Europe in March 2012 to begin the process of looking for a small place for myself and a dentist for my son. What is the deal with dentist in Playa and Cancun? Any inside info would be helpful. Thank You.

    Chris

    • Earl says:

      Hey Chris – Thanks for the comment! As for the two-tier pricing, in general, if you contact a dentist that is advertising in English on the internet, they are trying hard to attract foreign business and in turn, will charge much higher prices. The key is to find a reputable dentist who does not try to market towards foreigners. The one I used (and was super happy with) is Dr. Cristina Bernal at Dental Plus Cancun. I believe the office email is dentalpluscancun @ hotmail.com. She’s friendly, highly qualified and her prices are the normal going rate for locals who want to be treated by a well-trained dentist.

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  43. Caitlin says:

    Hello

    ive been offered and internship in playa – i just wondered about living costs – my accomodation will be provided but i will have to pay for the rest of my living expenses…i just wonder if you could shed some light on living costs there? i know you touched on it but i couldnt work out if that was including accom or not?
    any advice would be much appreciated
    thanks
    Caitlin

    • Earl says:

      Hola Caitlin – The living costs are quite low, although, they can increase rapidly if you want to enjoy the nightlife! In general, if your accommodation is taken care of, you could easily live well for about $500 USD per month. If you can afford $600 or so, you’ll live very well and will be able to eat out in great local restaurants and do pretty much any of the activities you wish to do.

  44. Misti says:

    HI Earl,

    I am so glad I found your blog! My fiancé and I (both 28 yrs. old) have travelled to Playa 3 times now and each time we obsess over living here. We live in Oklahoma now, but everyday we talk about how we are going to move down there. Right now, its just trying to find a way for each of us to make a living there….and also getting our stuff including our cats there! I wouldn’t take furniture of course, but my fiancé has spent a lot of time and money acquiring music equipment (guitars, speaker cabinets, amps, etc.) Is it hard to get things shipped to Playa from the states? Also, Im super worried about our kitties…have you heard of anyone bringing their pets with them to Playa? Any advice would greatly help! We hope to move to Playa next fall!

    • Earl says:

      Hey Misti – It’s not hard to get things shipped to Playa but it is VERY expensive and you’d need to use a reputable company or else things might go missing along the way. I once had to send an important document from Mexico to the US and it cost me $65 USD with FedEx! As for your cats, it would be much easier. I’ve met people who have brought both cats and dogs down there so I don’t think that’s too much of a hassle at all.

      If you have any other questions about Playa at any time, feel free to send me an email through my contact link at the top of the page!

  45. Cathy Aleman says:

    Looking to move to Playa del Carmen. My husband and I have been to the area twice. Our last visit was last week in Feb/12. We looked at condos there and was impressed by what we saw. We would probably rent for a bit to make sure it is the area we want. My concerns are is it safe there, for I will be there alone from time to time because my husband works at different destinations in the world. Alot of talk here in Ontaio, Canada regarding Mexico and how dangerous it is there right now. I sure did not feel that in the week we were there. What is your advice on this matter. All I know is from the time I arrived there, it is like I am a different person (that I want to be) more relaxed and not a worry in the world but of course my husband is with me. Would I feel different when he is not there I don’t know but only one way to find out! When we visit tropical destinations we cannot believe how we don not have the aches and pains in our body like we do in Canada. My age is 51 with back and neck issues and my husband is 46 with back issues, so we are researching different places and we keep coming back to Playa del Carmen for some reason. I also worry about hurricanes and earthquakes. Do they happen there. Any info would be appreciated to help in my decision. My husband has no problems his only concern, is my safety while he is away.
    Look forward to hearing from you
    Cathy Aleman

    • Earl says:

      Hey Cathy – Thank you for the comment! I actually just responded to the email you sent me earlier and answered your questions there :)

  46. Heather says:

    Hey Earl
    I am 100 percent moving to playa del carmen. Its always been my favorite place to go. The only thing that concerns me is speaking spanish. i know some spanish but im not fluent. Would that be a HUGE problem? Or can i get by without for a while?

    • Earl says:

      Hey Heather – That won’t be a problem at all. There is plenty of English spoken down there and I’m sure you’ll pick up more Spanish as well. Everyone in Playa is quite laid-back and more than willing to help you practice…the key is to just start speaking Spanish once you arrive and you’ll improve quite quickly :)

  47. Nancy says:

    I have been to Playa about 10 times. My most favorite place on the planet. (and have been all over the world). Am female- mid fifties- pre-divorced and will be on limited budget. I am semi literate in Spanish – but am taking courses to become completely fluent. Currently have a small RV that I would like to live in while I suss out living there. Two questions – is it possible to live in an RV ( super small- more like a van) and also I have a dog. Are these no-go’s for Playa?
    Nancy

    • Earl says:

      Hey Nancy – I’m sure it’s possible to live in an RV somewhere in Playa but I don’t know off the top of my head where you could park it exactly. As for a dog, that’s definitely no problem as many foreigners bring their pets with them!

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